The best traditionally made shoes from the Northamptonshire area have, since the middle of the nineteenth century, been constructed using the Goodyear method. This method was named after the man who invented a machine capable of carrying out this complicated lock stitch at a speed far greater than could possibly have been done by hand. It’s great advantage is that the sole stitching does not interfere with the shoe’s upper leather. Consequently the shoe can have any number of re-soles without putting additional needle holes in the upper and so weakening it. All the better shoe brands such as Tricker’s, Church’s, Lobb, Sanders and Loake shoes continue with the Goodyear welting method with all their best footwear.
Unlike other methods of construction such as blakey and moccasin a shoe with a Goodyear welted sole will be rather stiffer when the shoes are brand new. Therefore it is important to be able to tell whether a new pair is the correct size as inevitably there will be some heel slippage as you lean forward. This is especially the case with unlaced shoes such as loafers. Once the sole breaks in the sole will start to bend nicely and so the upper will cling as it should to one’s heel. The trick is, whilst sitting down, to cross one leg over the other and then to waggle the raised shoe around a bit. Whilst this raised shoe is in this position it will adopt its natural position around your foot and if it is the correct fit it should cling nicely all around the exposed part of your foot. If in this position there are gaps between your foot and the shoe then the shoe is too big.
Ensuring the correct size of your Loake shoes
