Bradshaw and Lloyd Fine Shoe Blog

It’s worth clarifying what exactly Oxford Brogues are as opposed to other types of formal lace up shoes. The word Oxford simply refers to the way in which the various sections of the upper leather are stitched together. Essentially there are just two options for the shoemaker but on the whole more shoe styles are made with the Oxford version than any alternative.
With an Oxford brogue all the leather meets at a stitched point at the bottom of the laces. With the alternative option the upper opens up much more fully and the panels of leather with the lace eyelets can flap open. This latter construction technique is known as a gibson or derby shoe.
The advantage of a derby shoe is that it caters much better for a foot with a higher instep since it offers more versatility. An Oxford style tends to look better when used on a brogue or toecap style of shoe.
The term brogue refers to circular holes and other decorative punched gaps made in the upper leather. These tend to be most concentrated around the forepart. There can be various degrees of broguing. A simple punch cap has holes punched along the seam where the toecap meets the forepart. A half brogue has holes punched into the toecap and possibly also along some of the other seams. A full brogue has holes punched over most of the forepart and these will also sweep down the sides of the shoe. All these styles may be termed Oxford brogues so long as the various panels are stitched together at a point directly below the lace eyelets.

The Loake factory has been producing their premium 1880 range of shoes for many years now but the Loake Legacy collection are that little bit extra special. Essentially there are two factors which set this collection apart from the highly respected Loake 1880 collection. Firstly, and as you would expect, they are made using the very best goodyear welted method of construction. However with the Loake Legacy range of both shoes and boots only the very highest quality materials that the factory can source are used. Additionally an extra level of time and skilled labour is spent on the extra detailing and hand-finishing which sets this range of footwear apart.

The second important feature of the Loake Legacy collection is the introduction of two totally new lasts shapes which are purely used for this footwear. These are the unique Loake Bullet and River lasts. There are presently thirteen different styles of shoes and boots in the collection and each is made on one or other of these two lasts. They are slightly different from one another of course but what they have in common is a thoroughly sleek and elegant sharpness.

At Bradshaw & Lloyd we are pleased to offer the entire range of Loake Legacy styles and include either a pair of cedar wood shoe trees or a premium shoe care kit with each pair.

There is an impressive range of high quality Loake boots in the 2019/20 collection. The vast majority of these are traditionally goodyear welted. This method of construction is generally accepted as the finest method of both shoe and boot construction. Loake use a wide variety of lasts in the making of the various styles in order to get just the right look and fit for the specific style of boot.
The best selling style of Loake boots over the last 12 months has been the Chatsworth Chelsea boot. Made in the Loake Kettering factory on the Jockey last this boot is suitable for most feet unless you have a particularly narrow foot. The stud rubber soled Chatsworth is from the premium 1880 collection and therefore no compromises have been made in terms of quality of materials and construction. Due to the ever growing popularity of the Chatsworth boot it is now available in a variety of leathers and suede. These comprise: brown suede, dark brown suede, brown waxy, black calf, dark brown waxy suede, rust brown waxy suede and green suede.

Should you prefer a more traditional leather sole then the Loake Apsley is basically the same boot as the Chatsworth.
At Bradshaw & Lloyd we offer the entire range of Loake boots. Do contact us if we can be of any assistance in your choice of footwear.

The words welt and welted are widely used when referring to shoe construction but it would be useful to give a little detail to avoid confusion over what are welted shoes. To begin with a welt is a strip of material usually around an inch wide which runs around the entire shoe or, most often with shoes, just to the heels. The upper of the shoe which bends inwards towards itself is stitched to the inside side of the welt. This stitching is therefore invisible on the outside of the shoe. The sole is then stitched to the side of the welt which projects away from the shoe. This means that when it comes to resoling the shoe at a later date the new stitches go into the welt and not the upper itself. After a number of resoles and the welts therefore weakened new welts can be fitted but the integrity of the upper remains good.

Welts can be made of a number of different materials but leather and plastic are the norm. Plastic is cheaper but cobblers dislike it since it’s difficult to stitch into.
Welted shoes have a cavity under the insole and between the welt which is traditionally filled with cork pulp. This fabulous natural material provides additional cushioning but also helps the shoe to mould to the shape of the wearers foot.

Traditionally Goodyear welted Loake shoes

Although welted shoes are generally regarded as the finest very few modern women’s shoes are made with welts. Welted construction adds to the price of the shoe and women’s shoes tend to be more fashion and price oriented.

The Sebago Ketch is a tassel loafer version of the Sebago Sloop. There’s no secret in the name that these are proper sailing shoes and designed for the serious sailor. We absolutely love them as they are genuine moccasins made from the very finest waxed leathers. The uppers are stitched to Sebago’s notoriously hard wearing and very grippy rubber soles. The tassels on these loafers make them ideal either with shorts or trousers. If you are only able to take one pair of shoes on your summer trip we think it should be the Sebago Ketch.

At Bradshaw & Lloyd we stock the Sebago Ketch in half sizes from UK sizes 7 to 12 and can offer next day delivery throughout the UK. If you’ve never had a pair of Sebago deck shoes do try a pair of these, we’re pretty confident that you’ll love them.

Sebago Deckshoes are the market leader in quality footwear for the summer. And there is no other more versatile style of shoe for recreational wear during the holiday season. Sebago deckshoes are available in a variety of stunning colours for both men and women. These are not the cheapest brand of this type of footwear but because of the quality of the product they have a very loyal following, no other competitor looks and wears so well.

The 1970’s saw the launch of the now legendary Dockside deckshoe.

Sebago are well known for their Docksides but the Sebago Clovehitch brings stylish and recreational men’s footwear to an extra level. Designed for the serious yachtsman these shoes are just as good on land as they are at sea. Your foot is more securely laced in than with the Dockside which can be worn as a slip-on.
At Bradshaw & Lloyd we stock a huge range of Sebago deckshoes. Order either on line at www.bradshawandlloyd.com or visit our Hurstpierpoint store.

Loake Drake is our go to smart casual shoe for the summer. Made on the Loake Claridge last it’s one of those shoes which really can be worn with or without socks. That is of course if you’re looking for that Italian summer look. What makes this shoe stand out from other variants on the high street is the contrasting sole edges, welts and heel block. Made in Loake’s overseas factory this fully leather lined 3 eyelet plain derby in calf leather comes in at an impressive £180. The suede options in navy and suede are even better at £170. All 5 versions of the Loake Drake are available at bradshawandlloyd.com or do visit our Hurstpier

The Loake Donington is a delightful slip-on suede shoe with a driving sole, ideal for the summer ahead. The shoe is currently available in four stunning suedes with contrasting stitching. The options are tan , green, navy and light blue. At Bradshaw and Lloyd we also have limited remaining stocks in grey and red suede. Available sizes are listed at bradshawandlloyd.com.

Unlike many similar looking styles available on the high street the Loake Donington is fully leather lined. They are also a true moccasin so the upper is just like a sock wrapping around the foot. They are therefore immensely comfortable and the perfect shoe for summer wear and also just for your go to shoe hanging out. Do visit our shop in Hurstpierpoint to see the Loake Donington in all its guises. Sensibly priced at £115.

Suede is a marvellous material for making footwear and I particularly like suede boots. Suede is the reverse side of the hide and as such is a great deal more supple and flexible than the outside of the hide. As a result when made into footwear it provides a superbly comfortable upper leather. In addition suede is highly unlikely to ever split at the weak point where the shoe creases with the bend of the foot. Regular leathers inevitably do eventually split at this point once the lining has gone and/or the fibres in the upper leather weaken.

Of course there are many different grades and qualities of suede but essentially the tighter the grain the better and more durable the suede will be. But there are some things to bear in mind to enhance the longevity of suede boots. Due to its suppleness suede does not require feeding with polish to maintain the fibres. However as with all footwear it’s definitely advisable not to wear the same pair of boots every day. We all expel a considerable amount of sweat through our feet during the course of the day and it’s important to allow this to evaporate between outings. Otherwise the linings will begin to degrade and once the linings have deteriorated the uppers will begin to wear.

There are some excellent suede protectors on the market which can help waterproof your suede boots. I particularly like Carbon Pro which continues to allow your feet to breathe through the uppers whilst deterring moisture ingress. It’s a good idea to give your suede boots a protective spray every few months.

Should your suede boots get very wet in a downpour then just let them dry out naturally at normal room temperature. If they are totally waterlogged then insert some screwed up newspaper to absorb some of the excess moisture. So long as this is observed a good soaking will not negatively affect your boots.

Finally avoid using a wire suede brush but instead use a rubber suede brush to maintain your suede boots in tip top condition. Wire brushes are too fierce.

There’s certainly a severe shortage of quality men’s shoe shops in Sussex these days. As with so many other kinds of shops on the high street the internet has not been kind to shops offering good quality footwear to the discerning male. The lack of footfall on the high street for these shops has been further hindered by the fashion for disposable trainers. This is despite the fact that trainers now seem to cost up to £200 per pair. However as far as men’s shoe shops in Sussex are concerned a saviour has appeared just north of Brighton: Bradshaw & Lloyd. 
Bradshaw & Lloyd has been offering high quality branded footwear to the discerning gentlemen online and mail order since 1990. However the bricks and mortar store is a relatively new innovation and opened its doors in 2015 in the village of Hurstpierpoint. We particularly specialize in Loake shoes and offer the biggest selection of fully stocked Loake styles in the south east. In addition to Loake we offer a comprehensive range of Barker, Sanders and Sebago shoes. However the key reason for opening the store was to launch our own range of ankle boots. These are made entirely in England to the very highest standard. In terms of quality we have tried to make them the best they can be but at a fraction of the cost of the more famous brands from Northamptonshire. So if you are looking for men’s shoe shops in Sussex do pop by. I’m usually on hand to offer advice on your choice of footwear.